Islamic Republic of Mauritania is geographically part of the Maghreb and it borders Algeria, Senegal and Mali, along with Western Sahara.
Mauritania which is Africa’s newest oil producer often seems to be little more than a ‘drive-through’ country – less a destination in itself than somewhere to transit between the better-known attractions of Marrakesh, Dakar or Bamako. The country though has some tremendous secrets to reveal to those prepared to stop and take a closer look.
Starting with the north-Western country’s capital Nouakchott which has been touted as where the Sahara meets the sea.
Nouakchott was a small village of little importance until 1958, when it was chosen as the capital of the nascent North African nation.
The city has to be simultaneously one of Africa’s strangest and most unassuming capital cities. It is Mauritania’s hub of economy and is home to a port that handles 500,000 tonnes of cargo per year and one of the country’s two international airports.
The city has urban planning nomad style. More like a city that simply popped up 5km from the coast as if on an overnight caravan stop and left to grow by accident. Most travellers use it as a staging post before the Adrar, Banc d’Arguin or the next international border.
The city was a small fishing village until 1957, when Mauritania attained independence. It has changed quite a bit since the Sixties, with mosques, government buildings, and street markets rising up out of the desert sand.
Spread out over land that constantly being encroached upon by massive dunes, and inhabited by a nomadic people that don’t keep their tents pitched in one place for very long, the city is always in flux.
It is also laid-back and amazingly safe.
Nouakchott’s central business was planned with broad streets and a grid-like structure, the fifth district was located close to this area and became the location of a large open-air market and residential area within a few years. It has had rapid growth, driven by the North African drought since the beginning of the 1970s: many have moved here in search of a better life. The population is estimated to have been just under 1,000,000 in 2000 and to have grown to above 2,000,000 in 2008. There is currently a large amount of Chinese investment in Mauritania that is focused on the city. As a matter of fact, recently, China agreed to invest US$282 million in the city’s port, with an aim of extending the main deepwater Quay of Friendship by 500 m (1,640.42 ft).
Nouakchott International Airport is the base for Mauritania Airlines International which flies to Paris, Dakar, Abidjan and Nouadhibou. It also receives flights from Algiers on Air Algérie.
The Nouakchottois go to the beaches on weekend evenings especially in the hot season. Swimming in the sea at Nouakchott can be dangerous due to the treacherous and strong current.
While in the city one can do surf-casting from the beaches near Nouakchott but, bring your own equipment. Some basic fishing supplies can be bought from Lebanese-owned shops in the city.
Most restaurants in the capital offer pretty much the same menu – simple pizzas, hamburgers, sandwiches, and salads. Nicer places, such as Plan B, New Rest or Iman, will have steaks, brochettes, seafood and even curry!
What may cause a little bit of a pickle in the city though is its road transport, with the main problem being overcrowding. Also fuel for cars is hard to obtain in Nouakchott.
The majority of the population lives in the sandy shanty towns and they have to buy water, which is expensive compared with the average wage. The rocks beneath the city contained a vast reservoir of fresh water, known as the Trarza Lake, but it is running out, owing to the large growth of the city. Engineers have warned it could run out by 2054, since it is not rain-fed, and is therefore non-renewable.
Like anywhere else, try to stay in groups after dark. You might occasionally run into some rude folks, but by and large, Mauritanians are a very nice people! Don’t be surprised to be offered a glass of tea in a shop!
